Aaron Putnam, a postdoctoral research scientist at the Lamont-Doherty Earth Observatory of Columbia University, is a leader of an expedition to Bhutan to examine links among climate, glaciers and water resources in the Himalaya.
Wednesday, Sept. 26
The day after the arrival of our colleague Scott Travis in Thimpu, Bhutan, we gathered our gear and loaded a small bus that would convey us to the beginning of our trek into Rinchen Zoe La. We traveled for about 12 hours along twisting, narrow gravel roads that hugged the most precipitous topography I have ever seen.
Along the way we ascended high mountain passes and ducked into the low, humid rain forests that characterize the impressive climatic and ecological gradients compressed into the small country of Bhutan.
Our guide, Karma Tshering, graciously introduced us to the spectacular cultural and religious aspects of Bhutan by taking us to the Punakha Dzong, an ancient center of government and religion that was recently threatened by a catastrophic glacial lake outburst flood. The flood emanated from the Lunana region, where a moraine dam impounding the glacial lake fronting the receding Raphstreng glacier failed, releasing a deluge of water down the Pho Chhu river, on which lies the Punakha Dzong.
Our glacier studies will focus on a similar system in the Rinchen Zoe region, which abuts the Lunana area from which the deluge originated.
We spent one night in the valley of Phobjika, which was near the place where we would begin our trek into high Bhutan Himalaya. The next day, a relatively short drive through beautifully rugged terrain brought us near our starting point along the Nikka Chhu. We will follow this river for the next few days.
A washed-out gravel road prevented us from reaching the exact start point, but it was nothing that about 10 horses, a four-wheel drive vehicle and the collective pushing of a broken-down vehicle out of the path could not resolve.
Our start point was in a small village that lies along the eastern flank of the Nikka Chhu. It was here that we met the support team that would permit our conveyance into the high mountains.
Apart from the eight members of our scientific team, including Pashupati Ssarma, Tsewang Rizin and Karma Tenzin from the Department of Hydromet Services, our support team consists of an additional 12 people, including our guide, Karma, two cooks, and a number of young porters and horsemen.
In addition, the 25 horses that will bear the burden of carrying scientific and camping equipment high into the mountains and back again are an essential part of our team.
After some last-minute negotiations with the horsemen, we finally set foot on the path along the Nikka Chhu.
Our path began at an altitude of about 2,700 meters (about 8,850 feet) above sea level, and would gradually ascend toward the headwaters of Nikka Chhu. The trail led us through enchanting forests of rhododendron and mossy fir, over rocky terrain and small streams, and along a gradual ascent into the atmosphere.
The altitude was certainly something that pervaded our thoughts, although we considered that any effects of thin air would begin to emerge only later, as we neared our destination. It was an assumption that we quickly found to be very much incorrect.
During the beginning hours of our trek, David and I stayed toward the head of the pack with our guide, Karma. After about two hours, we stopped at a wide part of the trail that Karma deemed befitting for lunch. It was at this time, while we awaited the arrival of our fellow team members, that one of the young and fast Bhutanese members of our group raced from behind and delivered a message that Scott was considering turning back.
I raced back down the trail to find Scott laboring slowly up the track. I relieved Scott of his pack, and Mike Roberts, our mountaineer from Adventure Consultants, based in Wanaka, New Zealand, convinced him to take a rest at the lunch area and to assess the problem.
Scott had competed in three ski marathons in Europe only months before, so his condition set off alarm bells. On the basis of Scott?s oxygen levels, respiration rate and heart rate, Mike determined that Scott was exhibiting the symptoms of altitude sickness.
This diagnosis, as well as his inability to recover during rest, left Scott with a dilemma; it had been his dream since childhood to witness the majesty of Shangri La. Nevertheless, he made the tremendously difficult but wise decision to turn back. It was very hard to see my dear friend and colleague leave us, but it was the only safe course of action.
Mike graciously accompanied Scott back to where we began our trek, while the rest of us continued on to our first campsite. The remainder of the day?s travel left us to reflect in solemn strides on how one must respect the attendant realities of the high mountains, no matter how majestic the scenery or how important the science.
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